Friday, November 5, 2010

Roadtrip #2: Car-sleeping near the article circle


Having seen the southern part of Iceland a month before, we wanted to get up to the west and north parts of the country while the weather was decent.  When the forecast provided a good-looking weekend, it was time to act.  With the days quickly getting shorter and the weather deteriorating at the same pace, we were thrilled to have a good opportunity.

We picked up our rental car at 9:00 on a Saturday morning, loaded it up with some food and supplies, and shot out to the north on the ring road.  That day we drove alongside beautiful mountains, rugged fjords, and a lot of sheep and horses en route to Akureyri, the second-largest "city" in Iceland with a population of roughly 17,500 people, which is situated in the north-central part of the country along the water on a fjord.  Arriving in the city in the mid-afternoon after five hours on the road, we realized there was no way we could accomplish our aggressive itinerary with a two-day rental.  After weighing our options, we decided it would be worth the extra cost and extra work I would have to do upon our return, to extend our rental for another day.  Finding a phone in a gas station, we were able to extend our car rental until Tuesday morning.  With that out of the way, we decided to spend the rest of the day and night exploring Akureyri, before setting off further to the east the next morning.

Arriving in the center of Akureyri we found a good parking lot near the small downtown area to set up our car/hotel for the night.  We jumped out of the car and walked around the town, seeing an amazing botanical garden (which was quite impressive considering its proximity to the Arctic Circle), some guys playing American football, and the downtown area for some coffee.  That night we got some dinner at a family-style restaurant, and quickly realized that the town was not going to become active until at least midnight.  We decided to watch a movie, and afterward went out for a couple drinks.  Opting not to pay a cover, we found a bar and sat with Marco, a Swiss amateur photographer who was traveling around the ring road (we met up him again in Reykjavik to play a trivia game).  From about midnight until dawn (though we didn't stay awake quite that long to find out), the center of town was full of cars and young people, but was significantly less busy the rest of the time.

 
The next morning we woke up early, and shivering, and headed out to explore the area around Mývatn in the north-central part of Iceland.  This area features a large lake, a lot of old craters, and a lot of volcanic/fissure activity.  It is also one of the most beautiful parts of Iceland that we saw on our trip.  While there, we drove the road looping around the lake, stopping to take photos and to visit a museum on the birds of Iceland.  This museum featured a very strange and unique (the only other place they appear is Japan) spherical, underwater plant, called Marimo.  Also while driving around the lake, we hiked up to the top of a small mountain, which gave us wonderful views of the craters from above.  The entire area looked somewhat like the surface of the moon, minus the light vegetation.  Near Mývatn, we drove over a ridge and suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a steaming area of geothermal activity right outside the Krafla caldera.  After exploring this area, we drove past a geothermal power station, and hiked up to and into the actual caldera.  The landscape was quite dramatic, featuring jagged, black volcanic rock, and a lot of hot, steaming vents.  It was getting dark, so after walking a ways into the caldera, we turned back and made our way to the nearby Mývatn Nature Baths.  This site is dubbed "the north's answer to the Blue Lagoon" and it did not disappoint.  Sharing the warm, thermal pool with only a handful of other visitors, we relaxed in the warm (and in some places, simply too hot) turquoise water.  On the drive back to Akureyri that night, we were treated to a good display of the aurora borealis, and stopped a couple times along the way for photos.  By the time we got back to Akureyri, we were exhausted and accustomed to the idea of another cold night in the car.









On the final morning of our trip, we awoke fairly early (and cold once again), and started the long drive toward Snaefellsness, a long peninsula off the west coast of Iceland.  Our route there ended up being a long, arduous one, as we were stuck on a bumpy gravel road for a good portion of the drive.  We briefly explored a few of the coastal towns on the north part of the peninsula, and then headed out to its tip, where we saw the Snæfellsjökull glacier and volcano.  While there, we explored a lot of interesting, old lava flows, saw some of the jagged, black coastline, and visited a sign paying tribute to Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth, which was set in the area.  After a full afternoon of exploring the region, the rain started to get harder and harder, and we made the journey back to Reykjavik.  Luckily we did not have to turn in our car until the next morning, so we were able to sleep in it one last night... just kidding, it was great to be back in a real bed.





Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Rotting shark meat...yumyum

Here is what Wikipedia has to say about an Icelandic "specialty" dish:

Hákarl (Icelandic for "fermented shark") is a food from Iceland. It is a Greenland or basking shark which has been cured with a particular fermentation process and hung to dry for four to five months. Hákarl is an acquired taste and has a very particular ammonia-rich smell and fishy taste, similar to very strong cheese slathered in ammonia. The shark itself is poisonous when fresh due to a high content of uric acid and trimethylamine oxide, but may be consumed after being processed. Those new to it will usually gag involuntarily on the first attempt to eat it due to the high ammonia content.

Hákarl is traditionally prepared by gutting and beheading a Greenland or basking shark and placing it in a shallow hole dug in gravelly-sand, with the now-cleaned cavity resting on a slight hill. The shark is then covered with sand and gravel, and stones are then placed on top of the sand in order to press the shark. The fluids from the shark are in this way pressed out of the body. The shark ferments for 6–12 weeks depending on the season in this fashion.

Airwaves 2010


Derek and I lucked into an unexpected invitation (thanks Patrick!) to volunteer for the Airwaves music festival in Reykjavik.  We only had to sell some t-shirts and posters for two afternoons and in return we got free music passes for the entire show (which were worth about $150 each and had sold out already).  We discovered that Reykjavik has a collection diverse and talented bands for such a small city.  Every night we saw bands that we have never heard of, and many of them were from outside of Iceland.  But I must say that the best performances were from Icelandic bands.  Some shows on the weekend didn’t even start until 2:30 a.m., so needless to say that we were exhausted by the end of the festival.  One of the great perks of volunteering for this festival was that not only did we get a free pass, but we also got to skip the lines outside (which sometimes had waiting times over an hour).  On top of that, all the passes came with discounts at some of the restaurants in town.  Someone should have warned us (or just Derek) that if you order sushi in Iceland you will most likely be getting some raw whale meat as part of your sampler.




Here are some links to a few bands that Derek and I particularly enjoyed:

Hurts:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15uFb2wjxjg


Four movies per day = advanced states of atrophy.


My second work camp was volunteering for the Reykjavik international Film Festival (RIFF), which started the day after I returned from my first camp.  I quickly threw my filthy cement-crusted clothes and work boots in a pile and replaced them with heels and dresses (and what I could try and pass off as nice clothes).  I must say the two work camps could not have been more different.  For RIFF we had over 20 volunteers (still no Americans!) and were housed in downtown Reykjavik.  I started off the first day by volunteering for RIFF's opening gala where we helped set up for the event, and I attempted to pour champagne for famous people (without spilling it all over them), all while keeping an eye out for Bjork (who was a no-show…go figure).


In this work camp, I finally had a chance to experience the night life first hand, which usually involves going out around midnight and staying out until six in the morning.  Needless to say I saw lots of organic graffiti (aka vomit)and shirtless men.  It’s interesting to note that at 2am on Saturday you see more people out in the city than you do at any other time during the week.   


The food was also especially different for this work camp.  We spent most of the time eating gouda cheese, cucumbers, skyr, nutella, and digestive cookies (probably the worst name you could give a cookie), and sometimes bread from a large bin with old pastries mixed in.  

My job at the festival was mainly as a driver, which was basically a disaster waiting to happen.  I had to pick up directors/judges/etc. at the airport and drive them around Reykjavik to different shows and parties.  In reality, I ended up driving a huge 9-person van the wrong way down one-way streets, doing illegal u-turns and getting stuck with horns blaring, shutting a car door on a director, and looking back to see one woman holding onto the "o-shit" handles for her life.  I would inevitably get lost and try to convince them that they would just be fashionably late, then I would have to call someone and tell them that I am on Skólavörðustígur street?!  How do you pronounce that?!  I would also help out in the theatres, which consisted of me watching a movie and then sweeping up the popcorn afterwards.  I discovered that my limit for movies in one day is four, after that reality starts to feel like a blur.  I really enjoyed the festival as it gave me the opportunity to see lots of great films, that I would have mostly never heard of otherwise, and a chance to meet the people who made the films and to personally ask them questions.  Also I enjoyed meeting so many great volunteers that I had the opportunity to work with,  and whose couches I may be also crashing on sometime in the future.

(Side note: I never thought about doing a work camp in a foreign country as opposed to general travel. Typically when I travel to a place I try to cram in as many sights as humanly possible, but I think there is something to be said for signing up for a volunteer program and really getting to know a group of people.  It gives you an opportunity to see a country in a different way, as opposed to the ultra-tourist method.)

Officially, the winner of the film fest was “The Four Times”(Le Quattro Volte (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zxYGvRBpg8).  Honestly, I really tried to watch this movie, and perhaps someone should have warned me beforehand, but it was it was an entirely silent film and for some reason I just couldn’t do it.  Here is the official description:   
"An old shepherd lives his last days in a quiet medieval village perched high on the hills of Calabria, at the southernmost tip of Italy. He herds goats under skies that most villagers have deserted long ago. He is sick, and believes to find his medicine in the dust he collects on the church floor, which he drinks in his water every day. A new goat kid is born. We follow its first few tentative steps, its first games, until it gains strength and goes to pasture. Nearby, a majestic fir tree stirs in the mountain breeze and slowly changes through the seasons. Le quattro volte is a poetic vision of the revolving cycles of life and nature and the unbroken traditions of a timeless place. The story of one soul that moves through four successive lives."  
 It actually sounds like a really great movie, so maybe someday I will work up the courage to try and tackle this beast again.  Here are some of my recommendations from RIFF:

Little rock (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoHUcdeMDCE)
Nuumioq (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGuu9iOa8NU)
Womb (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8Oujip3nJQ) ... be warned this one is VERY strange and I am only recommending it because I don’t want to be the only one who was disturbed by it (I’m taking you down with me!).
Also: Toxic Playground and Venice

To finish off the work camp, Derek and I rented a couple cars with some of my co-volunteers and did the golden circle tour, which is a three-stop day trip outside of the city.  The first stop was at Þingvellir, a national park where the tectonic plates are separating -- on one side you are on the European continent and on the other you are on the North American one.  The other interesting aspect of this site is that the Icelandic parliament or AlÞingi was established here in 930, and would host annual meetings to discuss laws for the country all the way until 1789.  The second stop was at Geysir, which was basically a bunch of tourists standing around a hole in the earth with cameras positioned up while waiting, and waiting, for the sulfurous pit to blow in the cold.  The English word "geyser" actually derives from the Icelandic name for this particular geyser.  The final stop on the tour was Gullfoss, which was a very large and beautiful two-part waterfall.